做塑料件的，十个采购八个被色差坑过。同一批订单，上一箱是标准的那个蓝，下一箱深了半度，客户质检拿着色差仪一测，整批挑出来重发。回头一算，返工、物流、道歉，比那点色母钱贵多了。今天把着色剂这事儿讲透：塑料色母粒和色粉怎么选、批次色差怎么控住、钛白粉为什么白色件离不开它。
着色剂说白了就是给塑料上色的那一勺东西。色粉是直接拿颜料粉拌进去；色母粒是把颜料先和载体树脂、分散剂做成高浓度颗粒，用的时候掺一勺到基料里。看着都是上色，差在稳不稳、干不干净。宁波市科隆新材料有限公司长期经营各类塑料助剂，色母粒、色粉、钛白粉、荧光增白剂都有稳定货源，色差和耐候数据随货可查。
| 类型 | 代表品种 | 颜料含量/机理 | 典型制品 | 添加比例 |
|---|
| 色母粒 | 单色/彩色色母 | 颜料20%-50%、预分散 | 通用注塑、吹塑 | 1%-5% |
| 色粉 | 颜料粉直接拌 | 按色板配、现混 | 小批量、多色 | 按色板 |
| 白色母粒 | 钛白粉为主 | 高遮盖白 | 家电、外壳、薄膜 | 1%-3% |
| 黑色母粒 | 炭黑为主 | 高黑度、遮盖 | 通用、电线电缆 | 1%-4% |
| 荧光增白剂 | 荧光增白 | 抵消发黄、增白 | PP/PE薄膜、白件 | 万分之级 |
注：色母颜料常见含量百分之二十到五十，行业一般按颜料含量不低于百分之十五划成色母；添加量按颜色深浅、制品壁厚调整。以上为行业通用口径，具体以厂家TDS和打样为准。
色差不是小事，是退货单上的真金白银
先把色差这层窗户纸捅破。塑料件的颜色，靠着色剂均匀分散在料里。分散得匀，每一件颜色都一样；分散不匀、计量不准，今天一勺明天一勺，颜色就飘。色粉直接拌，粉尘到处飞，称多称少全凭手感，换颜色还得把料筒洗半天，色差就这么来了。色母粒是预分散好的颗粒，按比例掺，计量准、不扬尘，颜色自然稳。
色差这东西，客户不会跟你讲道理。色差仪一卡，数值超了他的标准，就是不合格。你自己觉得“差不多”，客户那儿就是两个色号。做出口、做品牌件的，对色差尤其敏感——人家的产品要和上一批拼成一套，你这批发深了，整套都没法卖。
这里头的门道，在“分散”两个字上。颜料其实是一堆超细的小颗粒，要它在透明的塑料里均匀铺开，还得靠分散剂把它们一颗颗拉开、不抱团。色粉直接拌，靠螺杆硬揉，揉不匀就出现色点、色纹；色母粒在造粒那一步就把颜料分散好了，加到基料里只要均匀混一混就行。所以同样的颜料，做成色母，颜色又匀又艳，直接打粉，就容易花。
再说说白色。白色件看着简单，其实最考验遮盖。塑料基料本身带点黄带点透，要做成纯白，得靠钛白粉把它盖住；遮盖不够，件就发灰、透光。可钛白粉加多了，件又变脆、表面起粉析出，螺杆还积垢。所以白母的添加是个细账——薄件要高遮盖，多加一点；厚件、本色就白的基料，少加一点。这个度，靠打样卡。
图1 色母粒与色板色卡
颜色稳了，退货才少，这才是真降本
那厂家为啥要在着色剂上下本钱？做外壳、做家电件、做汽车内饰的，颜色就是脸面。一批色差超了，退货、返工、补发，一次损失顶好几吨色母的钱。更别提客户因为色差不信任你，下一单换了别家。
做品牌件的都吃过这亏：客户上次验收说颜色对，这次你换了批原料，色差仪一测数值飘了零点几个单位，人家就把货退到你厂门口。一来一回，运费、返工、交期延误，全是真金白银。更麻烦的是混批——不同批次颜色深浅不一，装在同一台家电上，东一块西一块，客户根本没法装。
账怎么算？颜色这笔账这么算：一吨料的成本，除了原料那块大头，后头还摊着加工、包装、管销财和供应商利润。你自己拿基料加色母粒改，色母就掺百分之一到五个点，加工费自己厂里摊，利润那层不用让出去。关键是颜色自己控——基料稳定、色母同一批、计量准、温度稳，色差就稳在一个窄窄的区间里，退货自然少，客户也稳，订单才接得稳、接得牢、接得住。
| 成本项 | 用色粉直接拌 | 用色母粒 | 差异说明 |
|---|
| 原料投入 | 颜料粉按色板配 | 基料+百分之一到五色母 | 色母略贵但稳 |
| 颜色一致性 | 计量凭手感、易飘 | 按比例掺、颜色匀 | 色差小 |
| 作业环境 | 粉尘飞扬 | 无扬尘、干净 | 车间整洁 |
| 换色清洗 | 料筒难洗 | 清洗容易 | 换色快 |
| 损耗 | 飞粉损耗大 | 损耗小 | 省料 |
| 综合账 | 看着便宜、实则赔退货 | 小投入稳颜色 | 算总账划算 |
那直接买调好颜色的改性料，还是自己拿基料加色母粒？买调好的色，还是自己配色？两本账对照着看。
| 对比项 | 直接买色改性料 | 基料+色母粒自改 | 提醒 |
|---|
| 料本 | 含加工费+利润加价 | 基料成本更低 | 行业通用口径 |
| 颜色控制 | 供应商定好的色号 | 按色板自调 | 自己打样对色 |
| 换色灵活 | 换色号要重新下单 | 换色母即可 | 多色小批量灵活 |
| 色差管控 | 供应商掌握批次 | 自己每批对色 | 留样比对 |
| 合规数据 | 供应商掌握 | 自己掌握、可送检 | 耐候/迁移另证 |
| 适合谁 | 单色大批量 | 多色/自有配色能力 | 没色差仪别硬配 |
边界得讲清楚：自己配色得有色差仪和色板留样，不然“看着差不多”就是批批返工；白色件别白母叠加大量填充粉，容易发白发灰分层；色母不是加越多越好，加多了件变脆、表面起粉析出；换色不洗干净料筒，新旧颜色混在一起，再贵的色母也白搭。
顺带把色粉、色母、抽粒这几条路的取舍讲透，省得你在采购会上拍脑袋。色粉那一套，灵活、便宜、配色快，小批量多颜色打样挺合适，可粉尘大、称不准、换色洗筒烦，走量走品牌件千万别上这个。色母粒是中间路线，掺一勺就走，干净稳当，量大了就上它。至于直接抽粒改色，那是把颜料重新挤出造粒一道，色更匀，但工序多、起订大，适合固定大单。中小厂自改，基料加色母粒这条路最实在。
着色稳不稳，看你什么基材、要什么颜色
着色剂不是一刀切。透明件用透明色粉或透明色母，遮盖件用钛白粉白母；深色件用黑母、彩母。基材不同，载体要匹配，不然分散不开、颜色浮在表面。下面这张跨品类矩阵，按你的基材和颜色要求对号。
| 塑料品类 | 典型场景 | 推荐着色方式 | 添加量 | 注意事项 |
|---|
| PP | 外壳、家居、餐盒 | 彩色色母 | 1%-5% | 载体选PP系 |
| PE | 薄膜、包装、桶 | 色母/白母 | 1%-4% | 薄膜注意分散 |
| ABS | 家电、外壳 | ABS系色母 | 1%-3% | 载体相容 |
| PVC | 型材、卡片 | 色粉/色母 | 按色板 | 注意耐热 |
| PC/透明件 | 透明外壳、灯罩 | 透明色母 | 0.5%-2% | 别用遮盖色 |
| PS | 文具、内包装 | 色母 | 1%-3% | 注意析出 |
| 白件 | 家电、管材 | 钛白粉白母 | 1%-3% | 薄件高遮盖 |
| 薄膜/浅件 | 包装、膜 | 荧光增白+色母 | 万分之级 | 增白别过量 |
有多色小批量、颜色拿不准的？把色板、基材和月用量发来，先帮你看色母还是色粉合适，不强制下单。宁波市科隆新材料有限公司的着色剂按颜色分——彩色色母、钛白粉白母、炭黑黑母、荧光增白剂，每批附色差参考数据，公斤级色母可以先打样对色再放量。
再说个采购常踩的坑：别光看“颜色像不像”，要看耐不耐晒、迁不迁移。户外用的件，颜料不耐候，晒半年就褪色变粉，客户照样找你；接触食品、贴身的件，着色剂迁移不迁移，关系到合规。这些不是靠肉眼看出来的，得靠检测。所以拿不准的颜色件，把使用环境说清楚，科隆新材好给你配耐候够、迁移达的料，别等晒褪色了再回头换。
前面那家家电厂后来的做法也值得抄：基料锁一个牌号，色母固定一个批次周期，每批首件对色留样，色差仪卡着再走货。就这么一套土办法，色差投诉基本清零。做着色久了都明白，颜色稳定不是调色的玄学，是把基料、色母、计量、温度这些变量一个个掐住的细活，省下来的退货钱，也是这么一格一格对出来的。
原来买配色料，自己加色母颜色反而更稳
说个典型情景示例，宁波市科隆新材料有限公司经手的着色客户里，按行业常见情形还原如下。
浙江有家做家电外壳的厂，以前买人家调好颜色的改性PP，颜色是供应商定的，可换一批原料色差就飘，客户色差仪一卡，上次合格这次超，反复扯皮。老板也烦：明明同一色号，怎么每批深浅不一样。
后来他们联系上了科隆新材。科隆新材先问清楚：色号、基材、客户色差允差、现在用什么基料。建议改成通用PP打底加彩色色母自改：基料固定一个牌号，色母同一批次按比例掺，每批打样和色板留样对色，色差仪卡着过。先寄公斤级色母试样。
这么试下来，色差稳在了客户允差里，再没因为深浅不一被退。老板算了笔账：以前买调好颜色的PP，一吨里含着别人的配色费和利润；现在通用PP加色母，每批对色板留样，色差仪卡着发货，一年下来退货少了好几批，料本还低一截。他还养成个习惯，每批首件都留样，客户再来找茬，翻出留样一比，谁的问题一目了然。这也是宁波市科隆新材料有限公司做着色剂供货的路子——不只卖色母，帮客户把色差这关一起控住。
还有个小东西容易被忽略——荧光增白剂。PP、PE放久了会发黄，白件看着旧，薄膜发暗。加万分之几的荧光增白剂，把黄绿光“转”掉，白度立刻提上来。可这东西是个精细活，多了就发青、发假白，少了又盖不住黄。它不是拿来当主着色剂的，是给白件“抛光”的配角，量一定要卡准。
采购常问：色母加多少、色粉色母区别、色差查哪
问：着色剂一般加多少合适？答：色母粒通常掺百分之一到五个点，看颜色深浅和壁厚；白色钛白粉母掺一到三个点，薄件高遮盖要二点五到三；荧光增白剂是万分之级，加多了反而发青。先打样对色板，定准比例再放量。
问：色粉和色母粒有什么区别？答：色粉便宜、配色快，适合小批量多色，可粉尘大、计量凭手感、批次容易色差、换色洗筒难；色母粒是预分散颗粒，掺一勺就行，颜色匀、无扬尘、换色易，量稍微贵点但退货少。走量走品牌件上母粒，小批量打样才用色粉。
问：颜色一批深一批浅、表面发花，先查什么？答：先查三样——基料是不是换牌号了，基材变了颜色就变；色母计量稳不稳、掺得匀不匀，料筒有没有残留旧色；温度有没有变，高温下颜料分解变色。这三样排查完还不行，找科隆新材对着色板调配方。
最后再提醒一句：色母和基料要“门当户对”。PP的色母拿去配ABS，载体不相容，颜色浮在表面、一磨就掉；透明件上了遮盖色母，直接变雾。所以报色号的时候，连同基材一起报，别只给个颜色让人家瞎猜，猜错了返工又得从头来。
颜色稳不稳，先对色板再定比例
把应用场景与推荐着色方式列成对照，按基材和颜色要求找方案。着色这活，基料固定、色母同批、计量准，色差就跑不了。
| 你的场景 | 推荐方式 | 添加量 | 关键验证 | 别这么干 |
|---|
| PP/PE外壳 | 彩色色母 | 1%-5% | 色差仪比对 | 基料换牌号不对色 |
| 白色家电/管材 | 钛白粉白母 | 1%-3% | 白度+遮盖 | 白母叠加填充粉 |
| 深色/黑件 | 炭黑黑母 | 1%-4% | 黑度+分散 | 加太多变硬 |
| 透明件 | 透明色母 | 0.5%-2% | 透光+色差 | 用遮盖色母 |
| 多色小批量 | 色粉/小色母 | 按色板 | 留样比对 | 换色不洗料筒 |
颜色不是调出来的运气，是基料固定、色母同批、每批对色卡出来的踏实——色差稳了，退货单就少了。
想把色差压住，发个色板和用量过来
有多色、色差卡得严拿不准的？把色板、基材和月用量发来，先帮你看色母还是色粉、掺多少，不强制下单。拿不准牌号的，把应用场景和用量发来，宁波市科隆新材料有限公司帮你对色号、算综合成本账。
想给件减重怎么发泡，翻上一篇发泡剂；着色剂和前面的分散剂、润滑剂搭着用更稳，都在本系列里。
声明：本文涉及的品牌、商标及产品名称权归各自原厂所有。本文为第三方选材知识分享，文中提及的牌号、参数、价格、认证及应用案例仅供参考，具体以各生产企业官方最新资料及批次检测报告为准。本文不构成任何采购或投资建议，读者据此操作风险自担。
For those making plastic parts, out of ten purchasers, eight have been tripped up by color differences. In the same batch order, one carton has the standard blue, and the next carton is half a shade darker. When the customer’s QC checks with a colorimeter, the entire batch ends up being sorted out and resent. Looking back, the cost of rework, logistics, and apologies is much higher than the price of the color masterbatch. Today, let’s fully explain the matter of pigments: how to choose plastic color masterbatches and pigments, how to control batch color differences, and why titanium dioxide is indispensable for white parts.
Colorants, simply put, are the spoonful of stuff used to color plastics. Color powder is directly mixed in with pigment powder; color masterbatch is made by first combining pigment with carrier resin and dispersant to form high-concentration granules, and when used, a spoonful is mixed into the base material. They both serve to color, but the difference lies in stability and cleanliness. Ningbo Kolong New Materials Co., Ltd. has long been engaged in the business of various plastic additives. They have stable supplies of color masterbatch, color powder, titanium dioxide, and fluorescent whitening agents, with color difference and weather resistance data available upon delivery.
| Type | Representative varieties | Pigment content/mechanism | Typical products | Add ratio |
|---|
| Color masterbatch | Monochrome/Color Masterbatch | Pigment 20%-50%, pre-dispersed | General injection molding and blow molding | 1%-5% |
| Pastel | Mix the pigment powder directly | Mix according to the color palette, mix on the spot | Small batch, multiple colors | By Color Palette |
| white masterbatch | Mainly titanium dioxide | High coverage white | Home appliances, casings, films | 1%-3% |
| black masterbatch | Primarily carbon black | High opacity, coverage | General, wires and cables | 1%-4% |
| Fluorescent brightener | fluorescent whitening | Counteract yellowing, increase whiteness | PP/PE film, white parts | ten-thousandth level |
Note: Masterbatch pigments commonly contain 20% to 50%, and the industry generally classifies masterbatch as having a pigment content of no less than 15%; the addition amount is adjusted according to the color depth and product wall thickness. The above is the industry standard, and specific values should be based on the manufacturer's TDS and sample testing.
Color difference is not a trivial matter; it is real money on the return form.
First, break through the barrier of color difference. The color of plastic parts depends on the pigment evenly dispersed in the material. If it is well dispersed, every piece will have the same color; if it is not well dispersed or measured inaccurately, with one spoonful today and one spoonful tomorrow, the color will vary. Mixing the powder directly causes dust to fly everywhere, and measuring more or less depends entirely on feel. Changing colors also requires washing the material barrel for a long time, which is how color differences arise. Masterbatch is pre-dispersed granules that can be mixed according to ratio, measured accurately, without dust, and naturally stable in color.
Color difference is something the customer won't reason with you about. If the colorimeter registers a reading and the value exceeds their standard, it's considered non-compliant. You might think 'it's close enough,' but for the customer, it's two different shades. When exporting or making brand items, they are especially sensitive to color difference — their products need to match the previous batch as a set. If your batch is darker, the whole set can't be sold.
The key here lies in the word 'disperse.' Pigments are actually tiny, ultra-fine particles. To make them spread evenly in transparent plastic, a dispersant is needed to pull them apart, one by one, preventing them from clumping together. If you mix the pigment directly and rely on a screw to knead it hard, uneven kneading will result in color spots and streaks; with masterbatch, the pigment is already dispersed during the granulation step, so when added to the base material, you just need to mix it evenly. Therefore, the same pigment, when made into masterbatch, has both even and vivid color, whereas using just the powder directly can easily result in uneven coloring.
Let's talk about white. White parts look simple, but they actually test coverage the most. The plastic base material itself has a bit of yellow and is slightly transparent. To make it pure white, titanium dioxide is needed to cover it; if coverage is insufficient, the part looks gray or translucent. But if too much titanium dioxide is added, the part becomes brittle, the surface powders, and deposits can build up on the screw. So adding white masterbatch is a delicate matter—thin parts need higher coverage, so add a bit more; for thick parts or base materials that are naturally white, add a little less. This balance is determined by sample cards.
Figure 1 Color Masterbatch and Color Swatch
The color is stable, returns are fewer, this is true cost reduction.
So why would the manufacturer cut costs on pigments? For making casings, home appliance parts, or car interiors, color is the face. If a batch has excessive color difference, returns, rework, and reshipments can cost as much as several tons of color masterbatch in a single loss. Not to mention the customers losing trust because of color differences and choosing another supplier for the next order.
Anyone who makes branded parts has experienced this loss: The last time the client inspected, they said the color was correct. This time, you switched to a different batch of raw materials, and when measured with a colorimeter, the values fluctuated by a few tenths. They just returned the goods to your factory. Back and forth, shipping costs, rework, and delivery delays all translate to real money. What's even more troublesome is mixed batches—different batches have varying shades, and when assembled on the same appliance, one part here, another part there, the client simply can't assemble it.
How do you calculate the cost? The cost for color is calculated like this: for one ton of material, beyond the major portion for raw materials, there are also allocations for processing, packaging, administrative and sales expenses, and supplier profit. If you mix the base material with color masterbatch yourself, the masterbatch only accounts for one to five percent, processing costs are allocated within your own factory, and you don't have to give up the profit margin. The key is controlling the color yourself—stable base material, same batch of masterbatch, accurate measurement, stable temperature—then the color difference stays within a narrow range, returns naturally decrease, your customers remain stable, and orders can be taken steadily, securely, and reliably.
| Cost item | Mix directly with dry pigments | Using color masterbatch | Difference Explanation |
|---|
| Raw material input | Pigment powder matched according to the color chart | Base material one to five percent masterbatch | The masterbatch is slightly expensive but stable |
| Color consistency | Measurement relies on hand feeling, easy to be affected by drafts | Mix proportionally, color evenly | Small color difference |
| Working environment | Dust flying | No dust, clean | The workshop is tidy |
| Color change cleaning | The hopper is difficult to clean | Easy to clean | Quick color change |
| Loss | High loss of flying powder | Low loss | material-saving |
| General account | Looks cheap, but actually loses money on returns | Small investment, steady colors | It's cost-effective to do the final accounting |
So should we directly buy modified material with the color already adjusted, or mix the base material with color masterbatch ourselves? Buy pre-adjusted color, or mix the color ourselves? Compare the two sets of accounts side by side.
| Comparison item | Directly buy color-modified material | Base material color masterbatch self-modification | Reminder |
|---|
| material cost | Including processing fee and profit markup | The base material cost is lower | Industry standard caliber |
| Color Control | The color code set by the supplier | Adjust according to the color palette | Sample the colors yourself |
| Flexible color changing | Changing the color code requires placing a new order | Just change the color masterbatch | Multicolor, small-batch, flexible |
| Color difference control | Supplier manages batches | Match colors for each batch by yourself | Sample Comparison |
| Compliance data | Supplier Mastery | Keep it yourself, can be sent for inspection | Durability/Transfer to be proven separately |
| Suitable for whom | Monochrome Large Batch | Multicolor / Own color matching capability | Don't force a match without a colorimeter |
Boundaries need to be clear: when mixing colors yourself, you must have a colorimeter and color swatches as samples, otherwise 'looks about the same' will result in batch after batch of rework; for white parts, avoid stacking a large amount of filler powder with the white masterbatch, as it can easily cause whitening, graying, or layering; using more color masterbatch is not always better—too much will make the part brittle and cause powdering on the surface; when changing colors, if the barrel is not cleaned properly, the old and new colors mix together, making even the most expensive color masterbatch useless.
Also thoroughly explain the pros and cons of color powder, masterbatch, and direct pellet coloring, to save you from making snap decisions at procurement meetings. The color powder route is flexible, cheap, and allows for quick color matching, making it suitable for small batches with many colors. However, it produces a lot of dust, is hard to measure accurately, and changing colors requires washing the barrel, so don’t use it for large volumes or branded parts. Masterbatch is a middle route; just add a spoonful, it’s clean and stable, and suitable for large volumes. As for direct pellet recoloring, that involves re-extruding the pigment into pellets, which gives more uniform color, but has more steps and larger minimum orders, so it’s suitable for fixed large orders. For small and medium factories doing in-house modifications, using base material with added masterbatch is the most practical approach.
Whether the coloring is stable depends on what substrate you have and what color you want.
Colorants are not one-size-fits-all. Transparent parts use transparent color powders or transparent color masterbatches, opaque parts use titanium dioxide white masterbatch; dark parts use black or color masterbatches. The carrier must match the substrate, otherwise it won't disperse properly and the color will sit on the surface. The following cross-category matrix corresponds to your substrate and color requirements.
| Plastic products | Typical scenario | Recommended coloring method | Addition amount | Precautions |
|---|
| PP | Shell, home, lunch box | Color masterbatch | 1%-5% | Carrier selected: PP series |
| PE | Film, packaging, barrels | Color masterbatch / White masterbatch | 1%-4% | Pay attention to film dispersion |
| ABS | Home appliances, outer casing | ABS Color Masterbatch | 1%-3% | Carrier compatibility |
| PVC | Profiles, cards | Color Powder / Color Masterbatch | By Color Palette | Caution: Heat-resistant |
| PC/Transparent Parts | Transparent casing, lampshade | transparent masterbatch | 0.5%-2% | Don't use a cover color |
| PS | Stationery, inner packaging | Color masterbatch | 1%-3% | Pay attention to precipitation |
| white item | Home appliances, pipes | Titanium dioxide pigment | 1%-3% | High coverage for thin parts |
| Film/Shallow Part | Packaging, film | Fluorescent brightening masterbatch | ten-thousandth level | Do not overuse whitening agents |
Do you have small batches with multiple colors, or colors that are uncertain? Send the color samples, base materials, and monthly usage, and we can help you determine whether color masterbatch or color powder is more suitable, without forcing you to place an order. The coloring agents from Ningbo Kolong New Materials Co., Ltd. are divided by color—colored masterbatch, titanium dioxide white masterbatch, carbon black masterbatch, fluorescent brighteners. Each batch comes with reference data for color difference, and kilogram-level masterbatch can be sampled first to match color before scaling up.
Another common pitfall in procurement: don't just look at whether the color looks right; you need to check if it is fade-resistant and if it migrates. For outdoor items, if the pigment is not weather-resistant, it will fade and turn pink after six months in the sun, and the customer will still come back to you. For items that come into contact with food or are worn close to the body, whether the colorant migrates is a compliance issue. These things can't be judged by the naked eye; you need testing. So for colors you're unsure about, clearly explain the usage environment. Kolon New Materials can match materials that are weather-resistant and safe in terms of migration, so don't wait until it's faded to go back and replace them.
The approach later used by that home appliance factory up ahead is also worth copying: lock the base material to a single grade, keep the color masterbatch to a fixed batch cycle, make a sample of the color for the first piece of each batch, and run the goods only when the color difference meter is on target. This set of simple methods basically eliminated color difference complaints. Anyone who has been coloring for a long time knows that color stability is not some mystical art of mixing colors; it’s about meticulously controlling variables like base material, color masterbatch, measurement, and temperature. The money saved from fewer returns comes from managing these details step by step.
It turns out that buying color matching materials and adding the masterbatch yourself actually gives more consistent colors.
Here's a typical scenario example: among the coloring clients handled by Ningbo Cologne New Materials Co., Ltd., the situation is restored as commonly seen in the industry as follows.
There is a factory in Zhejiang that makes household appliance shells. They used to buy color-matched modified PP from suppliers, with the color determined by the supplier. However, whenever they switched to a new batch of raw materials, the color difference would vary. When the customer measured it with a colorimeter, one batch would pass while the next would fail, leading to repeated disputes. The boss was also annoyed: even though it was the same color code, why was the shade different with each batch?
Later, they got in touch with Kolon New Materials. Kolon New Materials first asked for clarification: color code, substrate, customer's allowable color difference, and what base material they are currently using. They suggested switching to a universal PP base with custom mixing of color masterbatch: fix one grade of base material, mix the color masterbatch from the same batch according to proportion, keep samples and color chips for each batch for color matching, and control the color difference with a colorimeter. Then, send kilogram-level color masterbatch samples first.
After trying it this way, the color difference stayed within the tolerance allowed by the client, and there haven’t been any returns due to inconsistent shades. The boss did the math: previously, when buying pre-matched PP colors, each ton included other people's color matching fees and profit; now, using generic PP with color masterbatch, keeping samples for each batch against the color card, and using a colorimeter to control shipments, there are several fewer batches returned in a year, and the material cost is even lower. He also developed a habit of keeping samples of the first piece from each batch, so if a client comes to find fault, comparing with the sample clearly shows whose problem it is. This is also the approach of Ningbo Kolong New Materials Co., Ltd. when supplying colorants—not just selling color masterbatch, but helping clients control color difference as well.
There’s another small thing that’s easy to overlook—optical brighteners. PP and PE turn yellow over time, making white parts look old and films appear dull. Adding just a few parts per ten thousand of an optical brightener can ‘convert’ the yellow-green light and immediately boost the whiteness. But this is a delicate matter: too much can make it look bluish or artificially white, too little won’t cover the yellow. It’s not meant to be a main coloring agent; it’s a supporting component to 'polish' white parts, and the amount has to be precisely controlled.
Purchasing FAQs: How much masterbatch to add, the difference between pigment and masterbatch, where to check color difference
Q: How much coloring agent is generally appropriate? A: Masterbatch is usually added at one to five percent, depending on color depth and wall thickness; for white titanium dioxide masterbatch, add one to three percent, and for thin parts requiring high coverage, two and a half to three percent; fluorescent whitening agents are used at the ten-thousandths level, and adding too much can make it look bluish. First make a sample on a color board, determine the correct proportion, and then scale up.
Q: What's the difference between color powder and masterbatch? A: Color powder is cheap, mixes colors quickly, and is suitable for small-batch, multi-color production, but it can generate a lot of dust, is measured by feel, is prone to batch color differences, and is difficult to clean when changing colors. Masterbatch consists of pre-dispersed pellets, only a spoonful is needed, the color is uniform, there is no dust, it is easy to change colors, and although slightly more expensive, returns are fewer. Use masterbatch for high-volume or branded products, and color powder only for small-batch samples.
Q: If the color is dark and the surface is spotted, what should I check first? A: First, check three things—has the base material changed its grade? If the substrate changes, the color will change; Is the masterbatch measured and evenly blended? Is there any old color residue in the barrel? Has the temperature changed? The pigment decomposes and changes color at high temperatures. After checking these three things, it's still not enough. Go to Kelong New Materials to adjust the formula for the color board.
One last reminder: Masterbatch and base material must be "well-matched." PP masterbatch is paired with ABS, but the carrier is incompatible, causing the color to float on the surface and peel off easily; If the transparent part is covered with masterbatch, it will fog up immediately. So when reporting color numbers, include the base material together. Don't just give a color to make people guess blindly; if you guess wrong, you'll have to redo it from scratch.
Whether the color is stable, first match the color swatch then set the proportions
List application scenarios and recommended coloring methods as a comparison, and find solutions based on the substrate and color requirements. Coloring is a task where the base material is fixed, masterbatch is used in the same batch, and measurement is accurate—color differences are inevitable.
| Your Scenario | Recommended Methods | Addition Quantity | Key Verification | Don't Do It Like |
|---|
| PP/PE Housing | Color Masterbatch | 1%-5% | Colorimeter Comparison | Base material change with mismatched color |
| White appliances/pipes | Titanium dioxide white mother | 1%-3% | Whiteness masking | White master layered filling powder |
| Dark/black parts | Carbon black black master | 1%-4% | Blackness dispersion | Too much hardening |
| Transparent parts | Transparent masterbatch | 0.5%-2% | Light-transmitting, color difference | Using masking masterbatch |
| Multicolor, small batch | Colorpowder/Small Masterbatch | By Color Chart | Sample Comparison | Color Change Without Washing Cartridge |
Color Is Not Luck Mixed Out by Adjustment, It's the Stability of Fixed Base Material, Same Batch of Masterbatch, and Each Batch Matching Color Chart—Once color difference is stable, return orders are fewer.
Want to suppress color differences? Send me a color sample and amount .
Can't figure out how many colors there are or how much color difference is needed? Send me the color sample, base material, and monthly usage. First, I'll help you check whether it's masterbatch or color powder, and how much to add. No forced order. If you're unsure about the grade, send me the application scenario and amount. Ningbo Kelong New Materials Co., Ltd. will help you check the color number and calculate the overall cost.
If you want to reduce weight by foaming a piece, turn to an article about foaming agents; Colorants are more stable when used together with the previous dispersants and lubricants—they're all in this series.
Statement: The brands, trademarks, and product names mentioned in this article belong to their respective original manufacturers. This article is a third-party material selection knowledge sharing. The grades, parameters, prices, certifications, and application cases mentioned are for reference only. Please refer to the latest official information and batch inspection reports from each manufacturer. This article does not constitute any procurement or investment advice. Readers are responsible for any actions based on it
